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Kenu & Kundu Festival - 11 Day Itinerary

Sample Itinerary

Preview: 11 Days ‘Islands to Highlands’ experience

Your adventure begins in the tropical fjords of Tufi, with its unique landscape characterised by deep volcanic fjords and transparent tropical waters. You’ll experience village life, paddle the fjords in outriggers, and snorkel the underwater rainbows of the Coral Triangle.

In the Western Highlands, we learn about sorcery and witchcraft. You’ll meet generational witch doctors, see the famous Asaro Mudmen, take part in a Muu-muu feast and catch sight of remarkable birdlife. Culture is rich, food is fresh and nature abundant. Then we’re off to the nation’s capital: Port Moresby. What does PNG’s largest city look and feel like? We’ll explore museums, galleries and the history of the place.

For the finale, we settle in to front row seats for all the colour and energy of Alotau’s 15th annual Kenu + Kundu Festival. War canoes, ritual exchanges, traditional dances, sing sings and more … all to the sounds of traditional drums and conch shells.

Magic. We’d love to share it with you.

Itinerary

Day 1 - 3: Tufi

Tufi Resort - (B,L,D)

FLIGHTS: PORT MORESBY - TUFI

Arrive in Port Moresby for your transfer to the tropical outpost of Tufi. Once you clear customs, you’ll meet Expedition Leader and travel companion for the next 11-days, Ray Andrews. As the second generation of his family to work closely with Papua New Guinea, Ray has an extensive network and vast knowledge. You’ll head off to a fabulous lunch awaiting you at the Gateway Hotel before making your connecting flight into Oro Province and Tufi Lodge, nestled on the side of a Tropical Fjord.

Often described as ‘Scandinavia in the Tropics’, Tufi is, surprisingly, still a secret destination for divers wanting to experience the wonders of the Coral Triangle. As one of PNG’s most visited locations, Tufi is home to a magical mix of international traveller and locals still living traditional lives of self-sufficiency on surrounding islands. Dinner on your first night is a banquet in the long room surrounded by masks, sculptures and carvings whispering insights of local life.

Tufi is nestled on the slopes of extinct volcano, Mt Trafalgar. Its andesitic volcanic eruptions created the fjord channels which make this area so distinctive, today. During our time here, we’ll explore Boulders Waterfall and its surrounding rainforest. The gorgeous site is just a short boat ride down the coast and secreted up a short fjord.

We also head out to meet local villagers via a McLaren Harbour Cultural Tour. Your boat will head into another one of the fjords to be met by locals in their outrigger canoes and traditional dress. A quick vessel-swap and you’ll share the journey in their outrigger as the villagers take you deep into the inner reaches of the fjord where spirits and sorcery run wild.From the end of the fjord they will walk you through the rainforest to a sacred area. Here you’ll be shown you how to make sago, local bush medicines, fire making, mat making skills and traditional tattooing. We will also get to see how they use various bush materials to maintain their traditional lifestyle. When finished they will paddle us back to the boat, from there it will be a short cruise back to the resort for lunch.

There’s both pristine natural and intriguing offerings in Tufi, you’ll love it!

Day 4 - 7: Tufi / Mount Hagen

Highlander Hotel - (B,L,D)

During your time in Mount Hagen, you’ll visit highland villages and experience the Asaro Mudmen, discovering the official and unofficial history behind their existence.

Learn the history of Black Magic from real witchdoctors, eat feasts from Muu Muu (underground oven) pits and learn about traditional tool making from men who actually grew up in the Stone Age. The history is tangible in the Highlands, and you’ll marvel at how the traditional knowledge and customs blend with glimmers of westernisation to create the lifestyle of so many in PNG, today.

You will be witness to evidence of the ceremonial trading “moka” system. Here, each group is constantly trying to outdo the other by hosting feasts where they can show their prosperity that influences significant exchanges between clans. The self-decoration plays an integral part of revealing the tribes’ relationship with other clans to the greater community. As is the importance of primary colours used in this region, predominantly red, white and black. Each colour and texture holds a significant purpose. As we explore The Highlands you will learn more of the complexities of this unique region and its people.

Then there’s the colours, produce and energy of the famous Mount Hagen markets. While most of Papua New Guineans still farm their own food, the markets are an unforgettable dissection of what’s grown where and who values what. It’s fantastic watching for what’s popular in different markets around the country.

Day 7 - 8: Port Moresby

Gateway Hotel - (B,L,D)

Today we venture to the nation’s capital with a flight to Port Moresby. We’ll meet up with local guides for a half day tour of this bustling city.

Our tour begins at the National Museum and Art Gallery. Here we learn more about the intriguing history and culture of PNG and its place as one of only three independent cradles of agriculture, in the world.

By afternoon, we’re off to the revamped Nature Park (previously called the Botanical Gardens) to see the late afternoon feeding of Birds of paradise and remarkable and garishly coloured Tree Kangaroos, Cuscus, rainforest Pigeons and Parrots.

Port Moresby is in the midst of much construction as the country’s leaders reimagine the city’s role in the South Pacific. It’s an intriguing experience as you contrast your impressions between contemporary and traditional PNG culture and imagine the shape of this city in the years to come.

After our explorations, we head back to the Gateway Hotel for a final night of city life, PNG style. You’ll love the comfortable surrounds of this iconic hotel. Then we rest up before heading south-east, in the morning.

Day 9 - 11: Alotau

Alotau International Hotel (B,L,D)

Today’s the day we make our way to colourful Milne Bay for the Annual Kenu and Kundu Festival. From the physical celebrations on the Trobriands' 'Islands of Love' at Yam Harvest time, to the palpable inter-island rivalry vibrating from the war canoe races, locals bring their culture from each of the region's 600 islands to add to this amazing experience.

There are performances, races, competitions and mouth-watering fresh local dishes. But it is Alotau's progressive attitude that really cements this as a stand out cultural festival.

Alongside culture steeped in deep tradition, Alotau also presents the 'next generation' of south-east Papua New Guinea. Alotau's creatives merge tradition with today in their own creations for the festival. The result is a cultural experience all of its own.

Modern musicians perform hiphop/ reggae hybrids on stage with their five-piece, for example. Alotau's exciting, young screen-printers splash colour and design on bags and shirts throughout the vibrating crowds. And the region's master carvers have spent months in preparation, their creations a mix of what they know and what they want.

Here we’ll witness war canoes racing to the throb of hundreds of Native Drums. Large bands of women perform traditional song and dances which continue long into the night. There’s traditional performances, contemporary performers and all the food, colour and energy of a real celebration - and we have front row seats!

IN out time away from the festival, we’ll tour Alotau’s local delights. There’s much visible War history of the region and if conditions allow, we’ll cross stunning Milne Bay to see WW2 wrecks up close.

A full and fantastic final few days before we head back to Port Moresby for our international departures, with pockets full of memories.

Above: Traditional war canoes in Alotau, Milne Bay Province. Credit: Colin Taimbari

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