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Thailand M/Y Anggun March 9-20 2004
Trip report by: Cindi LaRaia
Finally I made my long awaited trip to Thailand! Fifteen
of us headed to Phuket,Thailand where we boarded the new luxury
scuba dive live-aboard; MY Anggun. Fabulous friendly Thai staff,
excellent local chef (who spoiled us with an aray of fabulous Thai
meals, and a Thai cooking lesson). I personally had whale sharks
on my wish list. January through May is typically the best time
to see these beautiful giants if one is so lucky! Since we were
in lovely Buddhist country I felt good karma was with us! We were
not disappointed! More on that later. We boarded MY Anggun around
7:00pm, settled into our cabin's and were served a memorable Thai
meal. Soft drinks are free and beer only 2.00 USD. They have decent
wine from Australia and France for 20.00 USD per bottle (duty on
alcohol is expensive).
We
started our diving in Thailand for the first day. Starting in the
Similans then onto the Surin Islands, the islands are close enough
for day boats; so unfortunately there are many boats in this area.
However the diving is very good in spite of the amount of divers.
The Similan and Surin Island 's are very beautiful
top side as well as underwater. The water was very warm at 84 perfect
degrees. We got very close to two large Lemon sharks, and able to
photograph them. At Ko Bon the sites is very colorful with a lovely
pastel dripping soft coral and a Manta to top it off! I have heard
great things about Richelieu Rock for the 12 years I have been selling
it; all the reports, are just as beautiful as I hoped! Loaded with
life, and a grand variety of marine diversity!
We headed to Burma (Myanmar) soon to find peace &
tranquility; we only saw a couple of other dive boats the 7 days
we spent diving there and did not have to share dive sites. We had
to stop at a very Burmese port called Victoria Point to pay our
150.00 per person USD Burma Fee (or bribe as we like to think) before
we could dive in these waters.
The weather great and sea's were flat and glassy,
blue skies and fairly hot. Some dives were done from the main boat
and some from the zodiac. We dove in three groups with three dive
masters to make it faster and roomy on the dive deck. The Thai staff
completely spoiled us rotten; they practically dressed and undressed
us, put our feet in our fins, rinsed our wet suits and hung them
up for us after each dive. They remembered who had what wet suit
and had it waiting on your tank! They were very helpful for the
photographers needs; camera tables and rinse tanks on the dive deck.
Cabin's are very comfortable with private ensuites,
3 different cabin types and pricing, all on the main deck. The salon
is very roomy with a/c , you could also eat outside on the covered
party deck. They have a lovely sun deck with lounges; kayaking around
the very beautiful islands in Burma and walks on the beaches in
between dives to fill up the days. Most days offered 4 dives including
night dives.
Our
first dive in Burma at a site called Three Islets was awesome in
spite of murky water. There was so much life! Hundreds of hinge
beak shrimp covered the granite rocks, 3 gray reef sharks patrolling
and thousands of glass fish swarmed the site. I will soon realize
the creatures of this trip were to be Hinge beak shrimp and Glassy
sweepers, they ruled! Always so fun to float in the middle of literally
thousands of fish, I was one with the fish on many occasions.
The Burma banks proved to be awesome, well worth the
6hr steam to get there, we were blessed with flat seas and Max!
Wow what a fun surprise, a big happy nurse shark who loves her dive
master buddies who visit with yummy treats for her. We did three
dives there and 2 of them were shark feeds. We did not see any of
the silver tips that sometimes come in for a tasty morsel; however
Max stole the show! She is huge and very photo friendly, she loves
to be petted like a big puppy dog. She stays around for most of
the dive and shares her love with all the divers. There is a big
cod fish that tries to eat all of the fish as well an old giant
scarred up barracuda. We thoroughly enjoyed the burma banks trip.
We found the visibility to be low in burma closer
to the mainland, some very green water, yet very rich in marine
life as well as in Thailand. The green water is not always there,
we happened to be in a plankton bloom which of course feeds the
water and invites diversity! We had a wonderful small critter trip
as well as big animals!
Several harlequin ghost pipe fish; my personal favorite
are the Harlequin Shrimp and they knew right where to find them!
Loads of hinge beak shrimps by the gagillions, the beautiful Saron
shrimp out for all to see in the light of day. Large flat colorful
crabs, the most beautiful nudibranch's of southeast asia, abundant
brightly colored cup corals with a medley of color. The topography
under water is very rocky and granitic covered in soft corals, dramatic
swim thru’s loaded with thousands of glass fish!
I
think the most dramatic dive site in Burma is called 'Devil's in
the sky'! Mobula Manta's by the hundreds! I was beside myself with
wonder as we seemed to be surrounded by them at times! It is awesome
to know something as grand as these manta's still exist! We ended
up making 3 dives here. The third dive which was unscheduled rewarding
us with a magnificent young whale shark ;-}. My friend Les and I
were alone together in shallow water when I heard him scream 'CINDI'......I
looked up to see this perfect silhouette of a young female Whale
Shark floating 10ft over us as she passed over the top of the reef.
We easily joined her as she was hardly moving! I talked continuously
to her as I do with Mantas and it seems to keep then curios. I was
able to swim by her side as we maintained eye contact. She let us
touch her gently, I was able to keep my hand on her cheek behind
her eye so we could talk! We were with her like this for about 20
minutes in shallow water, before Les saw our dive buddies and went
to get them. She never cared there were several divers swimming
over under and around her. Finally after 40 minutes of bliss with
this gorgeous creature my air tank was finished! The morel of the
story is, make every dive and keep looking up! I don’t want
to rub it in for someone who decided to NOT go on this dive!
The other famous site called Black Rock was another
winner, loaded with a lot of fish on the reef, very large and colorful
Mantis Shrimps, loads of giant scorpion fish some stone fish, I
think every crinoid had a cling fish, a shrimp and sometimes a harlequin
ghost pipe fish. Whip coral with 2 whip coral crabs. One of our
group videoed mating Cuttle fish; there were 3 in this session,
excellent video Bob! The next dive on this site was great as we
nearly jumped in on a giant Manta, we saw many large Mantas on this
trip. I am assuming due to the somewhat green nutrient rich water
at this time, is what brought in the abundant pelagic life this
time of year.
Kayaking is also a wonderful pass time in between
dives the islands here in Burma are extraordinarily beautiful. We
went at sunset and had a marlin jump near the boat and mating mobula’s
in our vision! WE went for a walk on an island that had sea snakes
that come on shore to nest.
Very colorful large flat crabs were everywhere, bait
fish moving quickly in a synchronized fashion, 3 harlequin ghost
pipe fish in a black coral bush, many species of lion fish and sea
snakes on many of the dives. The Leopard sharks always give us a
thrill; we had 2 more at a pinnacle in Burma along with another
manta.
Back to Victoria Point in Burma to retrieve our passports
and tour the port, great shopping for Rubies, Sapphires and 18 to
24 karat gold is real and a great deal. I wished I would have paid
more attention to this as the quality is good! Beautiful lacquer
and gold boxes are a great deal here best anywhere. We visited Buddhist
temples and monks high atop the town.
Now we head back to Thailand for 3 more great dives
and we were blessed with another Whale shark on our very last dive!!!
Another small one but not as friendly, I think because too many
people from the start and she was not as happy to hang around as
our first one, but none the less we were blessed with 2 whale sharks
and like I said before the trip. I am calling in the Whale Sharks
;-)).
I
was pleasantly surprised with our diving in Thailand! I will go
back for sure as this is a place that can make almost everyone happy,
plenty of small and unique critters full of diversity for the macro
photog’s and tons of big animals for big animal lovers! The
culture of Thailand is peaceful and lovely to tour either before
or after the dive trip.
We toured Bangkok for 2 days after this trip, visiting
the amazing Grand Palace, long tail boat rides on the Chao Praya
river and the very colorful floating market. We also took a day
to visit the Bridge over the River Kwai. It was all very beautiful
to behold, my heart found peace in the land of the Buddhists. Three
of us took a side trip to Cambodia to visit Ankor Wat and as expected
was truly one of the wonders of the world!
The MY Anggun will be offering diving to a new and
exciting destination for 2005, the Andaman Islands are further west
into the Andaman Sea! Stay tuned to see if we have a new and exciting
dive destination! For those of you interested in seeing more countries
in South East Asia after your dive trip. This is a great excuse!
I will now have to visit more of Myanmar (Burma), the north of Thailand,
Laos and Vietnam. I loved this trip!
Thailand
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